Since the first edition was published in 1980, Metric PatternCutting for Menswear has become established as the standardwork on this subject and has proved invaluable as both a textbookfor students and a reference source for the practisingdesigner. In this fifth edition, the chapter on computer aided design nowhas full colour illustrations and reflects the growing importanceof CAD to the industry and as a part of fashion and design courses.The rest of the book has been updated where necessary: inparticular, new blocks for tailored shirts, new details on how toadapt men’s blocks for women’s wear, and a revision ofsizing and labelling information. Colour is now used todifferentiate the main groups of patterns and with its tried andtested layout with clear text and diagrams, Metric PatternCutting for Menswear is an essential purchase for students offashion and design.
Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear provides a straightforward introduction to the principles of form pattern cutting for garments to fit the body shape, and flat pattern cutting for casual garments and jersey wear. This sixth edition remains true to the original concept: it offers a range of good basic blocks, an introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting and examples of their application into garments. Fully revised and updated to include a brand new and improved layout, up-to-date skirt and trouser blocks that reflect the changes in body sizing, along with updates to the computer-aided design section and certain blocks, illustrations and diagrams. This best-selling textbook still remains the essential purchase for students and beginners looking to understand pattern cutting and building confidence to develop their own pattern cutting style.
Since the first edition was published in 1980, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear has become established as the standard work on this subject and has proved invaluable as both a textbook for students and a reference source for the practising designer. In this fifth edition, the chapter on computer aided design now has full colour illustrations and reflects the growing importance of CAD to the industry and as a part of fashion and design courses. The rest of the book has been updated where necessary: in particular, new blocks for tailored shirts, new details on how to adapt mens blocks for womens wear, and a revision of sizing and labelling information. Colour is now used to differentiate the main groups of patterns and with its tried and tested layout with clear text and diagrams, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear is an essential purchase for students of fashion and design.
Since the first edition of Metric Pattern Cutting was published in 1975 to provide a straightforward introduction to flat pattern cutting, it has become the established textbook on the subject. The fourth edition continues to offer an introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting, with a range of good basic blocks and examples of their application to garments. The original blocks and many of the pattern adaptations have therefore been retained. However, the great expansion of casual wear, cut in jersey or stretch fabrics, has led to the growth of ‘flat cutting’ with no darting to create the shape and this edition devotes a whole section to this type of cutting. The sections on computer-aided design and grading have been updated. The size charts of body measurements have been revised, reflecting the changing shape of women’s bodies. Also available from Blackwell Publishing Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear and Babywear Third Edition Winifred Aldrich 0 632 05265 1 Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear Third Edition Winifred Aldrich 0 632 04113 7 Pattern Cutting for Women’s Tailored Jackets Winifred Aldrich 0 632 05467 0 Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting Winifred Aldrich 0 632 03917 5 Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear Second Edition Ann Haggar 1 405 11858 X Fashion Source Book Kathryn McKelvey 0 632 03993 0 Illustrating Fashion Kathryn McKelvey and Janine Munslow 0 632 04024 6 uhttp://www.blackwellpublishing.com/pdf/aldrich.doc
Pattern Cutting for Menswear is a comprehensive guide to cutting patterns from basic skills to advanced techniques. With over twenty complete patterns, including new jacket and trouser styles, this revised edition features all the elements that made the first edition so successful, as well as additional sections on the leg stride relationship in the development of certain trouser styles, fabric properties and their effect on cut and drape, fitting techniques for structured jackets, and the latest information on pattern CAD-based technologies. The step-by-step approach, complete with scaled diagrams and technical flats, fashion illustrations and photographs of toiles, enables the reader to cut patterns with confidence.
Designed for both students and professionals, Pattern Cutting for Menswear offers a comprehensive guide to pattern cutting from the basic skills through to advanced techniques. Including 20 complete patterns that show how to cut every aspect of menswear, the book features adaptations from basic blocks through to classic garments and trend-led styles. Illustrated throughout, this book contains everything you need to know to cut patterns for today’s menswear market. Using a step-by-step approach, illustrated with accurately sized and scaled flat diagrams, technical flats and fashion illustrations and photographs of toiles, Pattern Cutting for Menswear explains the theory behind the practice, enabling the reader to cut patterns with confidence.
This fourth edition of Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear and Babywear remains the standard text book but has three majorimprovements. First, the sections have been re-organised to reflect changes in producing and marketing children’s clothes. Today’s popularity of easy-fitting styles and knitted fabrics means that basic ‘flat’ pattern cutting is used to construct the majority of children’s wear and babywear and this type of cutting is therefore emphasised in this new edition. Shaped blocks and garments, cut to fit the body form, are still included, and are placed in chapters covering some school uniform garments or more expensive fashion or formal clothes. The book now clearly separates the sections useful to student beginners (Parts One, Two and Three), and also offers more advanced or specialist sections for students who wish to pursue a career in children’s wear or for designers working in the different manufacturing sectors of the trade. The second change in this fourth edition is the introduction of colour coding to the sections; this makes it easier to identify specific processes in the book and enhances the illustrations. Finally, the size charts have been revised to reflect the changes in body sizing. The clear division of the boys’ and girls’ measurements in the charts has been in response to the way clothes are marketed and to co-ordinate with European size charts. ‘Plus’ charts for heavier children have also been added.
Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear, first published in 1975, provides a straightforward introductory book for students beginning courses in flat pattern cutting. This fifth edition continues to offer an introduction to the principles of pattern cutting, with a range of good basic blocks and examples of their application to garments. New for this edition is the inclusion of colour to help students recognize the different sections of the book and to enhance the garment illustrations? Colour illustrations also offer a new dimension to the updated material on computer-aided design and the CAD chapter now provides students with a clear guide to the technology. The size charts have been revised to reflect the changes in body sizing, the co-ordination with European size charts and to the way that clothes are now marketed to different sectors. The great expansion of casual wear has led to the growth of 'flat cutting' with no darting, and the section devoted to this type of cutting has been further expanded. This best-selling textbook with its tried-and-tested presentation of authoritative text and clear diagrams remains the essential purchase for students of fashion and design.
This practical book shows students how to interpret the human form and look at clothing through the eyes of a designer rather than a consumer. As well as explaining the proportions of human anatomy, the book introduces key tools and takes the reader from simple pattern-cutting ideas to more advanced creative methods. Step-by-step illustrations show how to create basic bodice, sleeve, skirt, dress and trouser blocks, and how to adapt these to create patterns for original designs. There is also a chapter dedicated to digital technology, and a selection of the author’s own creative designs encourages experimentation with the potential of pattern cutting.
Getting the right cut for the right fabric is the key to gooddesign. One of the most challenging aspects of a fashiondesigner’s training is learning how to crate patterns thatutilize the characteristics of fabrics. With an ever expandingrange available, an understanding of the relationship betweenfabric, form and pattern shape is now the most important skill adesigner has to acquire. Winifred Aldrich, a leading pattern cutting authority, exploreshow a garment’s shape is created and discusses the factorsthat need to be considered when creating patterns and offers you apractical method for solving problems. No other pattern cuttingbook considers the effects of individual fabrics and its approachis based on the appraisal of the fabric and body shape. Fabrics and Patterns Cutting is the revised andsimplified edition of Fabric, Form and Flat PatternCutting. It is fully illustrated and makes use of numerouspractical examples. It also takes into account important newdevelopments in fabric – new fabrics, new methods of fabricconstruction and new fabric finishes. Free block patterns are available online for readers to printout for use in their classes.
The basic concepts behind sizing systems currently used in the manufacture of ready-to-wear garments were originally developed in the 19th century. These systems are frequently based on outdated anthropometric data, they lack standard labelling, and they generally do not accommodate the wide variations of body sizes and proportions that exist in the population. However, major technological improvements have made new population data available worldwide, with the potential to affect the future of sizing in many ways. New developments in computer-aided design and sophisticated mathematical and statistical methods of categorizing different body shapes can also contribute to the development of more effective sizing systems. This important book provides a critical appreciation of the key technological and scientific developments in sizing and their application. The first chapter in the book discusses the history of sizing systems and how this has affected the mass production of ready-to-wear clothing. Chapters two and three review methods for constructing new and adapting existing sizing systems, and the standardisation of national and international sizing systems. Marketing and fit models are reviewed in chapter four whilst chapter five presents an analysis of the grading process used to create size sets. Chapters six and seven discuss fit and sizing strategies in relation to function, and the communication of sizing. Mass customization and a discussion of material properties and their affect on sizing are addressed in chapters eight and nine. Military sizing and the aesthetics of sizing are detailed in chapters ten and eleven. The final chapter reviews the impact on sizing of production systems and specifications. Written by an international team of contributors, this book is an essential reference to researchers, designers, students and manufacturers in the clothing and fashion industry. Provides a critical appreciation of key technological and scientific developments in sizing and their application Discusses how developments in sizing affect the mass production of ready to wear clothing Reviews methods of constructing new and adapting existing sizing systems
Containing 2,729 entries, Kevin L. Seligman’s bibliography concentrates on books, manuals, journals, and catalogs covering a wide range of sartorial approaches over nearly five hundred years. After a historical overview, Seligman approaches his subject chronologically, listing items by century through 1799, then by decade. In this section, he deals with works on flat patterning, draping, grading, and tailoring techniques as well as on such related topics as accessories, armor, civil costumes, clerical costumes, dressmakers’ systems, fur, gloves, leather, military uniforms, and undergarments. Seligman then devotes a section to those American and English journals published for the professional tailor and dressmaker. Here, too, he includes the related areas of fur and undergarments. A section devoted to journal articles features selected articles from costume- and noncostumerelated professional journals and periodicals. The author breaks these articles down into three categories: American, English, and other. Seligman then devotes separate sections to other related areas, providing alphabetical listings of books and professional journals for costume and dance, dolls, folk and national dress, footwear, millinery, and wigmaking and hair. A section devoted to commercial pattern companies, periodicals, and catalogs is followed by an appendix covering pattern companies, publishers, and publications. In addition to full bibliographic notation, Seligman provides a library call number and library location if that information is available. The majority of the listings are annotated. Each listing is coded for identification and cross-referencing. An author index, a title index, a subject index, and a chronological index will guide readers to the material they want. Seligman’s historical review of the development of publications on the sartorial arts, professional journals, and the commercial paper pattern industry puts the bibliographical material into context. An appendix provides a cross-reference guide for research on American and English pattern companies, publishers, and publications. Given the size and scope of the bibliography, there is no other reference work even remotely like it.
Fashion Design: The Complete Guide is a modern and stylish introduction to working within the fashion industry today. Catwalk images show the latest trends and contributions from industry professionals span centres of fashion across London, Paris and New York. A fabulous selection of images and plenty of suggestions of further resources make this a useful and exciting springboard into a successful career in fashion. This behind-the-scenes guide to the study of fashion is for current and aspiring designers, fashion lovers and students. It provides an all-inclusive overview of the entire design process, covering the history of fashion, fashion illustration, colour and fabrics, the journey from concept to finished garment, research processes, presenting a collection and professional practice. It is generously illustrated throughout with images from famous designers, includes promising graduate work and showcases original artwork from a variety of studios. The new essential text for aspiring fashion designers, Fashion Design: The Complete Guide is filled with practical advice at every stage, including help with portfolios, personal promotion and career opportunities. With an attractive and colourful layout, every chapter also includes interviews, discussion questions, activities and further reading. The book is illustrated with beautiful examples of work from both established and up-and-coming designers, including Alexander McQueen, Viktor & Rolf, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Anna Sui, Jonathan Saunders, Mary Katrantzou and Elie Saab, and pictures of style icons such as Tilda Swinton and Gwen Stefani.
Technical Drawing for Fashion explains how to create a technical fashion drawing using a simple and straightforward step-by-step method, explained for those who wish to use Adobe Illustrator as well as for those who prefer to draw by hand. The second part of the book presents over 600 technical drawings of garment types, styles and construction details, the basic key shapes of which are shown alongside a specially created and photographed calico toile. Accompanying each illustration is a list of all the terms by which that garment is known. This unique presentation illustrates the relationship between the three dimensional garment and the two-dimensional drawing, allowing readers to really understand how to render technical drawings.
In one fully comprehensive book, the authors provide a critical examination of the technological developments and scientific understanding of the appearance and fit of clothing. They bridge the gap between the science of beauty and fashion design and garment evaluation technology, garment drape, and human anthropometrics and sizing. The book begins by discussing body attractiveness, how it relates to clothing material and design parameters, and classical and contemporary theories of beauty. Chapters present the industry's techniques, methods, and standards for assessing clothing appearance and fit and review the research and development of objective measurement technologies for evaluating clothing appearance and fit. Other topics include coverage of fabric objective measurement, fabric properties and garment drape, the R & D of body measurement, anthropometrics, and sizing systems.
Fashion designers are presented with a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives. This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction. Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models. Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.